Hunting the Whitetail

In the predawn hours of late fall, deer hunters clothed in blaze orange make their way from local diners and cabins into the woods. Their cars are often seen parked next to state lands or alongside unposted properties. It’s a scene repeated annually across Western New York that represents a rich tradition passed down through the generations.

As a wife and mother of two hunters, I was introduced to the local hunting culture as an adult. What I discovered helped put to rest common misconceptions and gave me an appreciation for the sport and the skills, know-how and motivation it requires. The majority of hunters are, in fact, responsible individuals who abide by the rules and care deeply about conservation. Most, if not all, use the meat to feed their families. My opinion continues to be shaped because of—not in spite of—the current mind-set about what we eat and how we get our food.

However, hunting today is more of a shrinking tradition. According to Department of Environmental Conservation (DEC), New York has seen a decline in the number of licensed hunters, which hit a high of 807,542 in 1983 compared to only 571,046 in 2018. These numbers mirror a national trend. and the ubiquitous whitetail has been given the label of “nuisance animal” as an increased number find their way into suburbia to munch on landscape shrubs or collide with vehicles.

While there are many reasons for this decline, there are also plenty of reasons to take a new look at hunting and the use of venison through the lens of healthful eating, conservation, feeding the hungry and benefiting the environment.

CLEAN EATING

The local food movement has picked up momentum in recent years, and with it the knowledge of the importance of eating minimally processed local foods. For those who favor “green living,” this alone may be reason enough to discover venison. The awareness that we need a closer connection to our food has resulted in an increase in community gardens and farmers’ markets, organic produce and meats, and “farm to table” events. Locavores, then, as well as those uncomfortable with the practices of mass meat production, might look instead to the animals that graze on shrubs and grass and forage on apples, nuts and corn.

NUTRITION

Most people know that venison is lean, but it also comes out ahead of beef nutritionally in other ways. The agile deer has 26 grams of protein, versus 22 grams for the more sedentary beef cow, and only 2 grams of total fat as compared to 17 grams in beef (per three ounces). While three ounces of lean beef contains 247 calories, venison has only 128. In addition, there are 74 mg of cholesterol in beef, while venison has only 67 (nutritionix.com). Moreover, venison is free of hormones and antibiotics, and 100 percent free range.

Hunters enjoy many aspects of the seasonal ritual including the love of being outdoors. But in the end, hunting is also an economical way to put food on the table. A successful harvest can mean 50–60 pounds of this superior protein source in their freezers.

CHARITY

Those who hunt but do not eat venison, or already have their season limit, can donate some or all of their deer to food banks across our region. The Venison Donation Coalition program pairs donors with nearby processors who prepare the meat and turn it over to the eight regional food banks. It is then distributed to member agencies (soup kitchens, food pantries, churches, senior living facilities, etc.) providing 280,000 quarter pound servings to those in need annually. This is at no cost to the hunter.

CONSERVATION

According to the New York State Department of Environmental Conservation, in any given year, approximately 35 to 40 percent of its fish and wildlife program is supported with revenue from hunting and fishing license sales, for the care, management, protection and enlargement of the fish, game and shellfish resources of the state (NY Finance Law § 83). This doesn’t include the estimated $2 billion generated for the state economy on a yearly basis by residents as well as visitors coming to New York who hunt, fish and trap. That economy supports thousands of jobs across New York.

And unlike beef, no one can argue that eating deer meat has a negative impact on the environment.

Despite the downturn in license holders, DEC Commissioner Basil Seggos says the agency is “committed to growing the sport of hunting, which helps conservation efforts across the state, gets people outdoors in the natural environment, helps wildlife managers control populations, and provides families with millions of pounds of high protein food each year.”

To accomplish this, Seggos says the DEC has “stepped up its efforts to introduce a new generation to the sport by targeting outreach campaigns and mentorship programs geared toward women and youth hunters. And we know it’s working, as women and youth are the largest growing segment of the hunting population.”

TASTE

All the above arguments won’t change eating habits of those who still have nagging doubts about venison’s taste. Many may have heard about its “gaminess,” or recall an experience with the meat that was less than savory. So, the question remains: Can it really be prepared flavorfully?

While venison does have a slightly distinct taste and texture compared to beef, know-how about its preparation makes all the difference. If the desired result is to coax out a beef flavor, that too, is achievable. Here is where I defer to my husband, his father and the hunting community who have, through trial and error, discovered specific tips and techniques to draw out the meat’s best qualities. And it starts long before it reaches the kitchen.

PROCESSING AND PREPARATION

In the field, it is important to properly field dress the animal. If the temperature is above freezing, cool the meat by filling the chest cavity with ice and remove the hide within 24 hours. And while in the woods, taking the best shot will avoid stressing the animal, which will affect flavor. The method of processing is also important. My husband, David, with the help of friends, cuts his own and swears by removing the bones to enhance taste and texture. “I have never eaten as much venison until I started to debone it,” he says. He favors knives to band saws when cutting the meat—which must be done in a cool environment. Carefully trimming is also important because unlike beef, fat and bone don’t flavor venison.